It is hard not to be enchanted with Venezia (as its known in Italy). The buildings appear to float in the canal, while being attended to by a cacophony of boats which transports nearly everything. Groceries, building supplies, fish and meat, fruit and vegetables, furniture, kitchen supplies, clothes, shoes, books, pictures, plants, flowers, wine and water, you name it. With no cars, no bikes, everything arrives and leaves by boats. The city is policed, fires are fought, patients are transported to hospitals, and dead carried to the cemetery by a specialist boats. Public transportation is handled by the vaporetti (Venice’s water busses) and water taxies, leaving the gondola to be the undoubted queen of boats. At 35 feet long, painted black, and guided by an oarsman, it can penetrate the narrowest and shallowest of canals, and is the most elegant boat on the canals.
We first took a vaporetti down the Grand Canal, taking in all the sights, sounds and activities. The Grand Canal banks are lined with more than 170 beautiful buildings, most of which date to 13th/18th century. A large number of the palaces and buildings are covered while under going restoration, and many more look like they need attention. With the rising water (yes, Venice is sinking), the salt water, the elements, the boats causing waves in the canal, the pollution, and the age of the structures, the buildings need constant work to stay viable. But the deterioration doesn’t stop the canal from glistening like a jewel and everyone around seemed completely absorbed in their surroundings. Later in the day we enjoyed a tour by water taxi with a guide to point out all the famous establishments and their stories, while we sipped on Bellini’s. After the Grand Canal, we were taken to explore some of the side canals that make up the six siestries (sections) of Venice.
When you get off the vaparetto at St. Mark’s first stop, you pass right in front of Harry’s Bar. We stopped in for a Bellini (fresh squeezed peach juice in prosecco) invented here and enjoyed most famously by Ernest Hemmingway. We enjoyed our drinks along with a polpette (fried meatball) and sides of olives, and had a grand time people watching.
On the way to the square, we stopped and visited with some gondoliers. Next we hit St. Marks Square or the Piazza San Marco where we were careful not to walk between the two columns marking the entrance (bad luck in Venice). One column has the statues of the Lion of St. Mark (symbol St. Mark and now the city of Venice) and the other is St. Theodore (attended to by a crocodile, who was the original symbol of the city).
The piazza/square is enclosed by the basilica and plays host to competing flocks of pigeons and tourists. A number of restaurants have bands playing music, and I was wishing I could take advantage of it by waltzing with someone in the square, but no luck.
We watched the moor statues strike the bell at the top of the 15th century Torre dell’Orologio or St. Mark's clock. A renaissance clock tower with a statue of he Madonna and a great golden lion on a star-spangled blue background above zodiacal gilt-and-blue 24 hr. clock face. We were unable to get a tour inside the clock tower due to the flooding and availability.
We ascended St. Mark's Campanile located in the center of the square. The city’s 99-m tall bell tower for fabulous views of the surrounding islands of Venice and St. Mark’s square. It was a great bird’s eye view. The tower is a reconstruction, completed in 1912 after the collapse of 1902. Because of this, there were elevators that took you to the top of the tower, making it a quick and easy visit.
We then were blown away by the mosaics and architecture of St. Mark’s Basilica. The basilica was absolutely gaudy and completely unlike any Catholic church I have ever experienced both on its interior and exterior, but it was difficult to take your eyes away from it. The history of the basilica is as colorful as its building. Venetian merchants stole the body of St. Mark the Evangelist from Alexandria, Egypt in 828 AD and brought it to Venice for the Doge, who bequeathed money to build a basilica fitting such a theft.
The basilica, built on the plan of a Greek cross, with five bulbous onion-shaped domes, was modeled on Constantinople’s (destroyed) Church of the 12 Apostles. St. Mark’s design is dominated by the Byzantine style and ranges through Romanesque to Renaissance styles. For centuries the basilica was enlarged and embellished with treasures plundered largely from Constantinople during the crusades.
The interior walls of the Basilica were decadently covered marble panels and a feast of gilded mosaics illustrating bible stories in stunning vivid detail. Some of the oldest mosaics date back from 1023. The gold gleamed from the mosaics, making the pictures show up in incredible detail.
Beneath the high altar rest the mortal remains of Saint Mark the Evangelist. Venice declared Saint Mark the city's patron saint and you often seen his symbol the winged lion all over Venice.
Behind the alter, was the Pala d’Oro (gold, enamel and jewel-encrusted alter piece used for special services, and one of the church’s biggest treasures.
Next we toured the Doge’s Palace, a stunningly impressive complex of courtyards, corridors, council halls, jails and hidden chambers where the doge lived and the government powerhouse secretly whirred away. Incredibly opulent with its massive paintings, polished marble, and gilded wood and plaster, it was hard not be impressed.
Our tour of the Doge's Palace started up the Golden Staircase and ended with the Prigioni Nuove (New Prisons for petty criminals – as the bad boys where sent below the waterline, in the basement of the palace). The new prisons were accessed directly from the Doge’s palace and court rooms by the Ponte di Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) – so called by condemned crossing the bridge to the prisons beyond.
Next we explored coast of the canal, as well as some of the side streets and shops. Once inside the side streets, it is like a maze. The streets are not laid out in even blocks, and you can’t see any landmarks to guide you. But each turn brings you to a new surprise. I wish my camera could have captured the elegance of all the tiny corridors, canals and bridges. I would have loved to have gotten lost in there for hours to explore. When we exited we took the vaparetto #2 back to the bus station, and absorbed the views of some of the other island sections we had not yet seen. San Giorgio, Giudecca, Dorsoduro, and the Venetian port.
I'll get he pictures posted up soon!
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